Tuesday, March 16 Tarxien, Marsaxlokk, and the Three Cities

Hello from Malta! When we awoke this morning, we were greeted by the sound of wild winds blowing across the bay--I thought for sure a storm was headed our way, it was so strong and so loud. As last night had turned a bit chilly, Daddy and I were sure that it would be cold out today. He checked the weather from the computer, which said 70 degrees, but the wind was so fierce we did not believe it and bundled up in sweaters and our matching red jackets. We headed up the stepped street to the main bus terminal in Valletta and were nearly blown over by the wind! However, the temp was quite warm, and Mommy began to wonder if this was one of the "hot winds" that blow over from Africa, which according to the guide book, can last for up to a week. And supposedly, if they do last that long all crimes of passion are forgiven!

We stopped and paid a visit to the Archeological Museum, housed in one of the old Knights' Palaces, and read/learned all about the Neo-lithic ruins outside of Valletta. Then, we rode the bus to Tarxien (tar-shen) and explored the neo-lithic ruins--quite ancient and right in the middle of town! Kind of like discovering ancient ruins underneath a Taco Bell in Jeff City--they were found when someone was excavating for a building project years ago--the top layer was completely ruined, but these temples survived. There were only a couple of other people there, and it was quite warm (the jackets went into the canvas bag). We wandered among the ruins--you can even touch the huge stones and stand right next to ancient altars. There is only a tiny little railing separating you from the altar rooms of the temples, and some of the areas are completely open! Again, spotlessly clean public facilities--no tp no papertowels!

We rode the bus to Marsaxlokk (marsa-shlock) and discovered the reality of bone-jarring bus rides described in the book! The scenery was great--lots of old old buildings, all golden-colored soft limestone with wrought iron window coverings, heavy green shutters on tall tall windows and narrow twisty streets--flat-topped buildings with small windows and stone stairways reminded Daddy and I of picture we have seen of Jerusalem! The bus wound through the countryside and we passed lots of farms with low stone walls instead of fences--gold colored slabs of stone ranging from pancake size to pizza size all stacked up--no mortar--dividing lots of little fields full of potato plants, wheat, artichokes and various other crops we did not know.

The little village of Marsaxlok is a fishing village right on the bay. The bus let us out at the market square--an old church, several rows of eateries, a long meandering crafts market and many many colorful fishing boats bobbing in the bay! The boats are bright blue, yellow, red and green--painted in stripes with decorative 'eyes' on the prows. We took a long walk along the waterfront, had burgers and chips at "Ron's" and then hiked out into the country. We walked along a narrow country road and took picture of farms, animals, flowers and crops. We also came out onto the main road and saw a car crash (how unsurprising--you would hate the driving here!). A woman came out of her house to check it out, and chatted with us (her house was near the bus stop for our return). She had a beautiful flower garden, and when I commmented on her flowers, she and her elderly mother started picking a bouquet for me! They were deep orange marigolds that looked more like orange daisies to me, and some kind of white fragrant flower she could not translate to English from Malti, but which sort of resemble snap-dragons. They are in a glass on the table in our room!

We jounced on the bus back to Tarxien, then walked (thank goodness for my ugly shoes!) and walked and walked around the area called the "three cities"--one of which included the original fort of the knights (San Angelo)--the one that held off the Turks during the Great Seige. This little town--Birgu--was so cool! It was surrounded by massive bastions/fortress battlements--we kept wondering what was on top of the battlements, but I told Dad I would NOT climb all those steps to find out!! We walked all around Birgu (also called, sometime, Vittoriosa because of the victory over the Turks--but that is the "new" name, and the Maltese have never gotten used to it!!) and watched some men take off in a Gondola to go across the harbour to Valletta! This little town is full of very narrow, canyon-like "streets" made of steps--they are like canyons because the stone buildings are so tall and the streets so narrow (not open to cars, many of them) that we could hear children's voices echoing from a block or two away!) As we wandered the streets, many people were walking to the churches for evening confession (a big deal esp. during Lent), then coming out to play (all sins forgiven!), eat ice cream, kick soccer balls (I was only beaned twice!) and flirt with each other (the pre-teens esp.).

We walked all the way to the end of the peninsula to see the fort San Angelo (owned by the Knights of Malta)--but it was closed! (only open Saturday!) We may go back--we loved the winding streets (uneven and full of surprises!), the playing children and the interesting old faces going to church. We ate supper on a marble step on the street--little pies from a stall in the square--I had one with cheese, Dad had 2 with cheese and one with peas--we shared a Sprite and had Cadbury chocolate bar for dessert. The whole thing was about 2 bucks USA--the bus ride home ride home was 30 cents USA--and guess what--the bus route back went right up over the top of the battlements--so a street and apartments (some built right into the battlements!) are what is on top!

We have each had a bath in the teeny tiny tub (how Daddy does it is a mystery I do not want to know!) and are getting ready for bed. We met David, the hotel man Daddy met on the Internet, and he recommends the old city of Mdina (Em-deena) for tommorrow. It is one of few remaining medievel walled cities. It is also near the grotto where St. Paul preached and converted the Maltese in 60 something AD. We will take the bus (rattle rattle!), then walk the city (there are 420 residents). We will visit the city, the museums and the old catacombs. One museum is in a palace dungeon and is a wax-works of medievel/inquisition torture practices--I will leave that one for Daddy.

I hope you are not bored by all this--I hope you are being good for Grandma and Pa-Pa! We miss you and think you all would like Malta (except G-ma and Pa-Pa would not like the driving or the walking or the buses--though Lucas would probably think the driving is cool, as it is death-defying at every turn!) I love you all--so does Daddy!

love, Mommy

ps we talked to Gordon's mom today--may see her later in week! love, mom

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